Lewis Carroll’s Alice in Wonderland and Through the Looking Glass have been some of my favorite books since my mother started reading them to me when I was a little girl. I enjoy the nonsensical nature of the characters and Alice’s insistence on questioning both the world around her and herself. As I’ve become older the books have continued to resonate with me in different ways at different points in my life. With this whole Clipper Race adventure it’s certainly felt at times that I’ve been in my own bit of a Wonderland with some of the unbelievable and nonsensical things that have happened.
From signing up for the race in April of 2018 to traveling back and forth from the UK three different times for training, Crew Allocation, and Prep Week to fundraising harder than I ever have before, it’s felt like an unbelievably impossible thing to accomplish. How was I going to actually pull off the massive task of paying off my berth fee for this thing? To add to the fun in the winter of 2019 my HR contract didn’t get renewed due to an acquisition, then in summer of 2019 we were dealt a curveball in the form of my partner losing his job at a big tech company in Seattle, so on top of everything suddenly our income became a lot less stable in one of the most expensive cities in the US to live. Somehow, I knew it was still going to work.
Over this journey I have grown so much and overcome so much. Since signing up there have been many 11th hour moments where I thought the goal of making my berth fee happen wasn’t going to be met and I was going to have to pull out of the race and let down all of the amazing people who have supported me. At every point something has happened to keep it going. It was not without a lot of panic and tears and wondering if it was really all going to come together. This last January was the final final final extension deadline and well…
“I can’t believe that!” said Alice. “Can’t you?” the Queen said in a pitying tone. “Try again: draw a long breath, and shut your eyes.” Alice laughed. “There’s no use trying,” she said: “one can’t believe impossible things.” “I daresay you haven’t had much practice,” said the Queen. “When I was your age, I always did it for half-an-hour a day. Why, sometimes I’ve believed as many as six impossible things before breakfast.”
Lewis Carroll, Through the Looking Glass
drumroll… WE FRIGGIN DID IT!! I am so happy and grateful to say that all systems are go and I am 100% on the Seattle yacht, my spot is secured. Now I’m working behind the scenes to plan some pretty cool things to fundraise for the Suicide Prevention Lifeline in order to help them with the awesome work that they do. With a little more than a month to go until the fleet arrives in Seattle it’s all systems go, I can’t wait to use this race to do some amazing things. If just one life can be saved by speaking out about my journey and encouraging others to look out for themselves and others and find their reason to stick around I’ll call it a win. It’s a wonderful time to keep believing impossible things as there are plenty of curveballs that could still happen before I leave Seattle May 2nd. I am going to keep believing and manifesting that it will all be fine.
It would seem that the Rum Run continues to be a race that is a special one for me. Those of you who know my saga know that a previous Rum Run, welllll… Rogue Rum Run, was the day I can pinpoint as the day I really fell in love with sailing. It turns out Rum Run 2019 is another special Rum Run! A couple of weeks ago after watching the movie Maiden with dozens of fellow Sloop Tavern Yacht Club I hadn’t yet sorted a ride out for the race so shamelessly asked my friend Mike Danger if he had plans for it. He hadn’t even thought of it yet, but was conveniently sitting next to his friend Duncan and they decided it would be fun to take Duncan’s boat 20 Degrees out! As luck would have it Mike’s partner Nadine was also there. While she doesn’t consider herself a sailor *yet* as soon as I heard him say they haven’t really done a lot of racing together I knew this would be a great opportunity for a gateway race.
As Mike and I continued to chat about plans for the race I knew it was going to be a fun one based on the cast of characters that had been pulled together. The week prior to Rum Run Mike messaged me and asked me my preferred position on the boat. I let him know I love the pointy end but will work pretty much anywhere, and then my heart leaped into my throat as he said that he and Duncan were considering having me take the helm if I wanted it. ACK! Me, helming a race?! So many thoughts went through my head, but I didn’t give it a ton of energy as I wasn’t sure if it would really happen or not.
The morning of the race happened and after excitedly getting to the slip, orienting myself to the boat, a Wylie 34 and doing introductions (“Hi, my name is Lizzy” “Hi Lizzy!” “And I’m a sailor”) we go over roles for the day. Duncan, the boat owner asked me how I would feel about driving and holy crap, it was happening! I’m sure the big grin on my face answered before I could say the words. I had Duncan take us out of the slip (didn’t want to push my luck too much!) and then when we were out and in Shilshole Bay. With admittedly some trepidation, I asked Duncan if he was ready to hand off the tiller. He enthusiastically said yes and holy crap, I was now skipper!
Before the race start there wasn’t much wind, in fact we saw the sad eyeballs (0.0) on the speed indicator. Truth be told I was more than ok with this as it gave me more time to try to get my bearings. This proved difficult as the wind was being incredibly flukey and the windex kept swinging around so I couldn’t easily pick a course to stay to and find a setting I liked for the sails! It did mean lots of opportunities to practice calling gybes and tacks with the changing wind direction. After a delay due to waiting for the committee boat to make it through the locks it was time for the race start, AHHH!! Again, fortunately the winds were still pretty calm so the start was in slow motion. Minus one boat that yelled at us as they seem to have forgotten this is meant to be a casual race, the start went reasonably well. I picked a spot to stay in and wanted to be conservative so waited until after the start to hoist our spinnaker. After a couple of minutes the racer in me won out over the anxious person in me so the awesome team on the boat got the kite up and the jib furled in. All went well and THANK GOD the wind filled in a bit and stayed fairly steady so I could get a course and sail towards the first mark. Holy crap, I was doing it! I had helmed for my first race start and we didn’t crash into anybody, and now I was steering towards my first mark and picking our lines. It was incredible. The next mark rounding went fairly uneventfully, though again I was very conservative on calling the timing for the douse so we went way past the mark in order to drop the kite before rounding. Oops! Something I’ll definitely get better at as time goes on. The wind started to fill in a little bit more after rounding the West Point mark and I continued to get the feel for the boat. I started to get to know the sweet spot where I felt even pressure on both sides of the rudder and could tell she was happy. I looked around a little bit to see where other boats were but couldn’t spend much time doing it, I realized now why the skippers I’ve sailed with kept asking me to watch for other boats when I was trimming as it’s really a big job to keep focusing on where I’m driving and what the wind and telltales are doing. Skippers I love, if you’re reading this I promise I’ll be even more diligent about calling traffic and other hazards for you!
Because this was my first time helming a race, it couldn’t go completely without some oopsies and boy did they. Anyone who sails in Shilshole Bay knows that there are a couple of areas in particular where the water can be deceptively shallow. West Point is one such area, and having gone aground there spectacularly earlier in the year on another vessel (not my fault!!) I gave the beach a wide berth and we tacked away early and avoided any mishaps. As we were nearing the point I figured we should start turning soon I asked the guys what they thought about the tack angle and Mike smiled back and said “You’re the skipper!” Well… Meadow Point is a mark I’m used rounding on a boat with a shallower draft (my beloved Reckless, a J/80) and cut it a little too close before turning towards the mark. We didn’t have a working depth sounder on 20 Degrees and so there was a very soft lurch and we stopped moving and, crap, I had put us aground. Fortunately it was over in a matter of minutes as it was a soft grounding, the engine is solid, and we were able to throw the boom over to weight us. After some work moving the rudder back and forth and a few choice swears we wiggled ourself off of where we grounded and starting moving towards the mark by way of a few tacks. I was embarrassed and apologizing profusely to Duncan for my error and in my head hoping I hadn’t damaged the keel. Because I wasn’t focusing on where I was steering and what the wind and currents were doing, I managed to put us into irons (a point of sail where you don’t have forward momentum or much steerage at all) and the current was all too happy to push us into the Meadow Point buoy. Oops. Not my finest 15 minutes of my sailing career for sure, and thanks to fellow rad lady sailor Remy on board we were able to avoid a harder bonk as she did a great job of fending us off. At this point Nadine could tell I was mentally beating myself up and encouraged me which I was very grateful for.
The wind continued to kick in and it made for quite a fun run to Port Madison. It was revealed that the boat is named 20 Degrees because that is an angle that she sails quite happily at, and I have to agree! There were a few gusts and I think a couple of the crew were more than a little nervous at the angle we were at (sorry Amy!) as this was a new concept. Fortunately I had the awesome team of Mike and Remy trimming and they helped get the boat a little flatter so that there were no crazy broaches or round ups. We sailed past the invisible finish line and while we didn’t earn one of the coveted duck stickers, holy crap I had done it! I skippered a race!! My nervous instinct wanted to get the sails furled right away and throw the motor on, but then brain reminded me that other boats were finishing behind us (yay we weren’t dead last!!) and turning up into the wind just past the finish line would be bad form. We continued to motor sail into Port Madison and then I handed off the tiller to Duncan to get us into the raft up.
The raft up was fun and it was great to see dear friends in the community. A few expressed how proud they were that I skippered and I was grateful for it! I may or may not have had more than a couple of rum drinks to calm the nerves that finally got to get worked out about skippering so definitely did not do any of the driving home!!
Mike and Duncan, thank you SO MUCH for believing in me and entrusting me with the privilege of skippering. Thank you for providing a safe place to learn and make mistakes, and for encouraging me to make calls and experiment with the boat. Thanks for not yelling at me when I ran aground and then bonked the buoy, you would have had every right to take the helm away during the race but you told me to keep going and I feel like I grew so much as a sailor because of it. Remy, thank you for always being a badass and an all around fun woman to sail with. You may not know it but you have inspired me to go whole hog with sailing! Nadine and Amy, you both were awesome on the boat. Thank you for doing a great job of staying on the boat in conditions that were definitely not in the Jimmy Buffet video!
Welp, with three levels in and a month and a half until I’m back in the UK again for Level 4, probably makes sense to get on with talking about what I’ve done thus far on the Clipper Race training adventures.
My journey began at the very busy SeaTac airport in Seattle. As fate would have it, my best friend Elli was flying in at around the same time from North Carolina, so we got to have some well-needed hugs and coffee. I’d been having a rough go with the depression battle so there were some tears mixed in as well. That woman and I have been through a lot together so it was incredibly special to get to see her before embarking on this adventure.
Soon it was time to board flight one of two that would take me to London. The flight was uneventful and soon I was navigating LAX to get to the terminal. LAX is notoriously a pain to navigate and it lived up to its name. After getting lost a couple of times and walking right past the gate a couple of times I finally made it to where I was supposed to be. Being the dork that I am, I couldn’t help but grin at the British accents I was hearing as I sat eagerly waiting for my time to board. Before I knew it the time to board had come and I got on the huge plane. Again, a rather uneventful flight. I will say if you ever fly on an American Airlines flight in Economy that includes food, it’s not a bad idea to bring your own. Carbs and sugar seemed to be the name of the game as almost everything was either heavy on bread or sweetened in lieu of other flavors. It was free with the flight but breakfast especially was just sugary yogurt and a sugary muffin. You know it’s a ton of sugar when even a unicorn is calling it out!
After a long long slog the flight tracker showed that EEK, I was actually over England, a place I had only ever dreamed about going to. I eagerly looked out the window to see what I could and as soon as we dipped below the clouds the adorable quaint country homes told me I was here! Before I knew it we had landed and I took my carry on bag through a fairly easy customs process and was on my way to baggage claim to get the rest of the luggage I would be living out of for the next two-ish weeks.
OMG! WHERE’S MY BAG?!
Pretty much everyone who has ever checked a bag has had that anxious moment where they watch the bags of their fellow travelers go round the carousel but can’t see theirs. Until that day I had always eventually spotted mine. Today held a different plan for me as I watched the number of bags on the carousel shrink with increased anxiety until the carousel stopped completely and my heart sank. I walked over to the American Airlines lost baggage counter and after a few stressful phone calls (and admittedly a few tears) the LAX Alaska baggage counter was able to surmise that my bag had only been checked to LAX, not through to Heathrow. I was assured it would be put on the next plane and then couriered over to Gosport.
Amidst all of this I got one of my first BIG glimpses of the Clipper family network. I posted on our Facebook group that I was freaking out as my bag had not made it, and within about 20 minutes a few wonderful people had arranged to have gear ready that I could borrow whilst waiting for my bag to get to me. One of those lovely people was Della from the head office who said she would be waiting for me when I get off the Gosport Ferry and would give me a ride to the B&B. She asked if there was anything else I needed and I said at that point, I could really go for a pint and a hug! I was tired and exhausted and now had the quest of figuring out a bus and a train to Portsmouth. Thank goodness the rest of that went well and soon I was boarding the Gosport ferry. By this time night had fallen but I was able to just make out the masts of the Clipper fleet at the marina and things began to feel more real!
I got off the ferry and was immediately greeted by a kind face that turned out to be Della! She was an absolute sweetheart and gave me a much-needed hug right away. She had even put together a goody bag with some chocolates and a beer and G&T in a can as she wasn’t sure what I would like. I was very grateful and humbled for the hospitality. She whisked me off to the Spring Garden Guest House which turned out to be run by the sweetest woman EVER named Heather. Della helped me get settled and showed me what she had pulled together for me to borrow and then went on her way after another hug. Next I needed to sort out food finally, but it turned out to not be an issue whatsoever as another kind racer named Anthony was also staying at the B&B, had heard of my adventure, and had an overabundance of Indian food he insisted on sharing. I was all too happy for it and after some banter in the common room it was finally time for some well-needed rest on a thankfully very comfortable bed.
Training office and #selfiewithsophie
After a night of some very weird sleep patterns I finally crawled out of my bed at what seemed like a reasonable breakfast hour and was treated by Heather to my first FULL ENGLISH. For those not in the know, the right proper English Breakfast is a smorgasbord of tastiness. Eggs, I swear three different kinds of meat, toast, beans, tomatoes, mushrooms, and all the tea I could drink were brought out and I was in food heaven. For as much guff as the Brits get about the supposedly flavorless meat/potatoes/veggie supper formula, the breakfast game is on point.
The famous and delicious Full English!
Once I was fed the next order of business was to wander over to the training office to drop off the bag I DID have with me and sort out what the hell I was going to do about boots in case my bag didn’t come on time. Tom, another Seattle compatriot who was in town for his Level 3 training met me across the Gosport Ferry in Portsmouth and greeted me with a hug and a goody bag of essentials such as earplugs, Sturgeron (amazing seasick meds) and other treats to get me through the first week.
After a pint we wandered over to the Musto store where I got to meet the lovely Sophie, our gear goddess for the Clipper crew! She sat me down, gave me my very fist tea and biscuit and a BIG hug as she had heard of the bag debacle. She helped me get fitted to some AMAZING new boots (link here to the Musto ocean boots) that I was excited to wear both for the next two weeks of training as well as at home in the chilly PNW waters for winter racing. I may have walked out with a backpack too, oops! While there I also got a selfie with her like a proper #millennial and next thing I knew had started the #selfiewithSophie tradition for the Clipper crew!
It’s Finally Time!
The time had come to assemble at the training office and finally meet my training skipper and boatmates for Level 1! Two boats worth of excited and eager sailors and soon-to-be sailors were gathered in the office and treated to tea and biscuits (sensing a theme here…) and then next thing we knew we were walking down the dock with our skippers to what would be home sweet boat for the week. We were assigned to CV7, one of the Clipper 68s. For Level 1 and 2 training we use the previous generation of boats as the 70’s are busy being used for Level 3 training and corporate sails. It turned out that our boat was extra lucky as our Skipper was a wonderful man named Simon, our Mate was a guy named Matt who was a bit of a cheeky and lovable one, and then we had a bonus mate in the form of the incredible Kym. It was very lucky having a female trainer on the boat as she was able to teach us gals some tips and tricks that were unique to us. The evening was spent getting our bunks quickly set up, then skipper treated us to dinner on the boat and we talked about who we were, what we hoped to get out of the race, and what the plan would be for the week. It was cool to see that we had a mix of all different ages and levels of sailing experience. The Clipper Race is truly for all sorts, as evidenced by the fact that my watch partner for the week was a 70+ year old gentleman named Graham.
After we had dinner and our chat finished, next stop was the infamous Castle Tavern for a round or two of pub drinks. The Castle is infamous for being a Clipper crew hangout and sure enough, when we got there we were greeted by others who were in various levels of training. Getting to the pub would become a theme over the next week!
The next morning we awoke to an amazing sunset. After breakfast and morning rituals it was time to get ready for a day of drills at the dock as the weather was, as the Brits say, blowing a hoolie. As some of the crew on the boat had NEVER sailed before, we did a lot of work on practicing knots, going over the deck and all of the different danger zones (there are LOTS), practicing line handling and winch handling, proper usage of safety gear including PFDs and tethers, and learning the art of sweating up a halyard. Let me tell you, everything on the Clipper 68’s was bigger and HEAVIER than anything I had ever worked on up until that point on a boat. These boats are no fluffy charter boats and as one of our crewmates for the week discovered, there is no button to operate the winch, just brute strength and the mechanical advantage offered by the pedestal grinder or a winch handle. Even though we hadn’t left the dock at all, by the end of the day we were all tired from practicing grinding a “bricked” sail (sail that has been tied into a bundle in its bag and attached to a halyard) over and over and sweating the halyard up. Dinner was very happily consumed and then as you can guess, we went to the pub!
Slipping the Lines
As with a lot of things the Clipper Race does, they have a specific way that lines are handled when leaving the dock in order to make sure it can be done as cleanly and safely as possible. Our skipper went over the process with us along with the art of using two roving fenders to make sure we didn’t cause damage to the boat on our way out. Fortunately for us, our skipper made steering that boat look like he was driving a little car so in a few minutes we were effortlessly motoring out of Gosport Marina and off into the legendary Solent! I could not wipe the grin off my face as the reality of what was about to happen was sinking in. I was really on a Clipper boat and was finally about to be sailing!! We spent the day going over raising sails, tacking, putting in a reef as the weather was still a bit windy, sail changes, and maneuvering safely around the boat. One important component that was handled twice a day was TEA!! I became quite fond of the ritual of tea and biscuits.
Much like everything else thus far, the steps for everything were all bigger and more involved than anything I’d previously done on a boat. The Clipper training team had done an incredible job of creating bright yellow wet notes that we were to keep on us at all times. These wet notes broke down the process of all of the main functions on the boat and were our lifeline as we worked to memorize the processes. Doing the drills over and over again helped greatly, I am definitely one who needs to see/do things rather than one who can learn just from reading pictureless instructions.
In order to keep things exciting (not that that was challenging!) the dock for the evening was not in Gosport Marina but rather in Cowes! Yes, THAT Cowes! I being the silly American that I am thoughts at first we were going to some random place called Cows. When I told my mother where we were going she got really excited and I very soon learned that Cowes is legendary for sailing. We arrived at the dock, put the boat away, had dinner cooked by two more of our teammates, and then as you may have imagined, found a pint or two at the pub attached to the marina.
Being the adventurous sort that I am, there was no way I was going to let an opportunity to do something exciting pass me by. The next day held more drills and skills, with one being a solo paddle in a dingy from one part of the dock to another. There is an art to getting from the dock into the dingy without getting wet and thankfully every member of our crew was able to succeed. After the dingy fun there was an opportunity for those who wanted to go up the mast, and surely I wasn’t going to pass it up! The view from the top of the mast (90′!!) was incredible, I could see the tops of the adorable English cottages around Cowes and out into the Solent. Looking down made my heart jump in my throat a bit but I was glad to have done it and gotten a bit of a cool photo opportunity as well. Once we left the dock the day and the following week held more practicing on the sailing skills we had continued to develop.
Get your kit fitted!
One important and exciting part of Level 1 is going to the Musto Lighthouse store and getting fitted for your race team kit. This includes your team gear like polos, crew jacket, and shorts and trousers as well as the soon to be infamous bright yellow foulies!! I got super excited to get my kit on as once again, things were feeling REAL! I’m also grateful that the neck gaskets have been changed for the race as they were TIGHT on the smocks! The fantastic Sophie and her team helped us get sorted into our gear and then it was time to go to the Customs House pub to wait for the rest of the crew to finish.
Before we knew it, the week had come to an end and it was time for a team dinner and one last night at the pub before the favorite activity at the end of every training level… THE DEEP CLEAN!
Clean Up, Clean Up, Everybody Everywhere…
For those who may not be in the know, at the end of every level of Clipper Race training the boats are turned inside out as much as possible and deep cleaned. Hygiene is a super important habit to have on the boats as germs and bacteria can take a fun trip to a nightmare in a hurry, especially with only two heads (toilet for you landlubbers) on board. It’s also important to ensure everything on the boat is maintained in a safe working order as things that are maintained can break and that can cause huge issues. What this means is that EVERYTHING that can be removed from the boat and cleaned… gets removed from the boat and cleaned. Every single floor board, every sail and coiled line, every cushion from the berths and salon, every piece of kit allllll gets taken out and then what’s left on the boat gets inspected and scrubbed very carefully. It is utterly amazing how dirty a boat can get in just one week, mold can be public enemy #1 and it grows oh so well below deck. Every nook and cranny from the bilges to the cave lockers to the galley to the heads was cleaned with anti-bac and then as you may be able to imagine, we had to put it all BACK in the boat. We were positively knackered by this point (another fun phrase I learned from my new UK friends) and then after passing our maintenance inspection were very excited to get to the Boathouse restaurant for lunch. We also had the good fortune of getting to go poke around on a Clipper 70 and get a feel for how they were laid out differently than the 68s. After being on the previous version of the boats for a week I could definitely understand why some of the changes were made for the 70’s.
It was an incredible week of forming friendships and new muscles (more on that in the next post), learning some new sailing skills and unlearning a few bad habits that had accidentally been picked up, having a new definition for tired, and most of all having an incredible time on these amazing sailing machines. Stay tuned for the report on Level 2 where we went offshore for 4 days!
Y’all, this week has been an ADVENTURE. I’m feeling a bit too tired to get a full proper blog post out so in the meantime please enjoy these quick thoughts. Getting to sail a Clipper 70 has been an absolutely incredible experience. This week was my first time out on one and the high I got working on the boat is unlike anything I have ever felt in my life. The sheer power of these boats is impressive and has to be felt to be believed.
I’ll go over more details when I have more energy, but for now I will say that I have no doubt that this is where I belong.
This week under the mentorship of an incredible skipper I feel like I have grown so much and become a more confident sailor. I ran a freaking foredeck on a Clipper 70!! If someone had told me a few years ago that I would feel ready to work a foredeck on a boat like this I would have said they were out of their tree. Actually, come to think of it I have had such a conversation with someone. Lisa, turns out you were right! This week involved a bit of spinnaker work and some talk on tactics and trimming. Fortunately an awesome friend gave me the North Sails trim book so I got to read that and then go play with some of my readings on a super fun boat.
This week was not without its challenges, as it became apparent that we had some folks who hadn’t necessarily kept up with the homework and/or weren’t in a racing mentality. The challenges became learning experiences in themselves as it meant that I had an opportunity to step up and take my turns leading maneuvers on foredeck and for man overboard drills and sail evolutions, and of course make my own mistakes on some of them because my ego needed a bit of a check at points.
My skipper was great about encouraging me when I was doing well, and having the “so, what did we learn?” conversations when I had done something that wasn’t correct. I was able to own my errors and it felt really good to be in an environment where that was appreciated. Throughout all of this, Wavy imparted his years of sailing experience on me and let me ask just about any question I wanted about sailing. He caught on quickly that I like working the pointy end of the boat and it turns out that he’s a founding member of Foredeck Union so he was excited. 🙂
While we didn’t get as heavy into gybing the kite and talking about trim and tactics as I was hoping for, it was still a really valuable experience and I feel like I learned a ton. I feel ready to take on Level 4, but first there is one teensy little detail that needs to be addressed…
I need to finish paying for this damn thing! In addition to shilling beer mittens and candles and being available for other sewing work and putting in hours at Fisheries, I’m on the hunt for sponsors who believe in my mission and want to give a scrappy young sailor a leg up. I am working on my value proposition and presentation, but if anyone has recommendations or advice on pursuing sponsors as an individual racer I would love to hear it! Crew Allocation is May 11th and I’m looking to bust a major move or three before then. I know it’s going to happen through a combination of hard work and dumb luck but isn’t not knowing exactly how I am going to get there part of the fun?
I know I’m going to do this and it’s going to be the adventure of a lifetime, all of the hard work will be worth it. I’ve spent so many hours meditating on and manifesting what it will feel like to leave the dock in Seattle with friends and family waving goodbye and wishing good luck.